Explore Morocco with Rove Morocco Travels
In April and May, 2013, my wife, Heidi, and I traveled for 3 weeks in Morocco. We got around on our own the first week in Tangier, Meknes, Volubilis and Fez. Before leaving home in America we had made arrangements for accommodations in Meknes and for a driver to drive us from Meknes to Fez. We met Moha in Fes and he guided us on a 10 day tour through Midelt, the Chebbi dunes, Rissani, Todra Gorge, Dadas Gorge, Skoura, Ourzazate, Taroudannt, Agadir, Essaouira and other destinations before reaching Marrakech. All our accommodations were top notch and eating spots were equally perfect.
Our time spent with Moha was the highlight of our journey. Moha is a warm soul who immediately seemed to understand our personalities and guide us in an appropriate manner. Heidi and I share interests in culture, landscape, history, architecture, etc. Beyond these interests, I have an interest in geology and minerals and Heidi is interested in silversmithing and jewelry. We constantly peppered Moha with questions about everything under the sun and he patiently answered them. He might answer us through a story or a cultural expression and these interactions became our window into how at least one Moroccan thinks. Moha is of Amazir (Berber) heritage. The population of Morocco is roughly evenly divided between people of Amazir and Arabic ancestries. The Amazir are an ancient people who lived in what is now Morocco before the Roman, Arab and French arrived and made their contributions. You can learn much more about the Amazir elsewhere. For the purposes of this review I just want to point out that the Amazir have a long tradition of struggle to maintain their identity as they faced waves of newcomers. They also have a tradition of coexistence. It is this theme of Amazir cross-cultural understanding that Moha focuses on in his outlook and his life. He grew up in Rissani and his tribe excels in trade between different groups around the Sahara desert. He has a degree in English literature from the University in Meknes and his english is excellent. (He also speaks Arabic, French, and other languages I cannot remember.) He has worked as an on-the-ground coordinator for the student exchange program of the University of Texas, Austin. He has visited the United States to help sell Moroccan fossils at the annual rock and mineral bazaar at Tucson, Arizona. But what he is really excited about now is studying and practicing the understanding between peoples of different backgrounds and using this as an approach within tourism. Something like cultural tourism that is less anthropological and more about exchanging living cultural viewpoints between equals. His passion is evident in how he talks about his Amazir traditions and how ancient ideas of community continue to have relevance in today’s world. I must add that Moha is an excellent driver. We had no idea how vast the distances are in Morocco. In Morocco you need a driver who can stay alert over long distances, in varying road conditions, hairpin curves and in the presence of erratic driving by others. Moha is such a driver and he loves driving. Our spacious SUV (I am 6’4” and had ample room) was clean and stocked with snacks every morning. More importantly over 10 days I never saw Moha wander from his lane in fatigue. I think his personal mission is to honk at every wobbly bicyclist across the nation in order to get them to value their own lives as much as he does!After spending some time in Morocco you begin to think that everyone is related through family or familiarity. Moha is typical in this regard. He was able to call his contacts throughout the country while we were on the move and make things happen for us. Heidi wanted very much to meet a traditional silversmith and see how they work. We encountered many dead ends in the research we did before leaving home. Its a difficult task now because much of the silver making was traditionally done by Jewish people spread throughout the country in many towns. There was an exodus of many Jews after WW2 to Israel and the art is unfortunately dying. Moha was finally able to find a likely craftsman in Taroudannt and we spent a few hours with him. As is the law/custom we also needed to have a local guide for the day while we explored the town. Although he was a gracious, kind man who served us well I could not help but notice the difference between our two guides. In the souk the local guide brought us to one market stall after another where he clearly received reward for doing so. Moha never would do such a thing. Moha did often take us to souks and we had a chance to interact with local artisans and traders but the tone was one of educational exchange and not an overt buying opportunity. There may have been an agreement between guide and trader but I felt it was for our benefit and not for our exploitation. When we wandered in the souks as a trio Moha would often keep a distance ahead or behind and we were relatively unmolested by the traders. Somehow he was communicating to the eager traders with looks or signals that we were with him and he was watching over us. I still don’t know how he did it, even in unscheduled settings. Before and after in Meknes or Marrakech when Heidi and I were alone in the souks we had a full helping of aggressive trader come-ons. This is all part of the experience but this is where an experienced guide like Moha who is fluent in local customs is so valuable to moderate the experience and help you to feel comfortable and receptive to learning more.Moha surprised us one night by offering to take us to part of the wedding ceremony of one of his cousins. Though we were tired we could not pass up such an opportunity. We were warmly greeted by Moha’s extended family and were treated as guests of honor within the enormous tent decked out with a massive upholstered throne for the bride and a 21st sound system for dancing afterwards. We were amazed by the ceremony and were quite moved by the generosity with which we were incorporated in the festivities. Moha kept an eye on us to explain what was happening and to guide us through the protocols. We witnessed the henna ceremony which is only one night out of 3 days of festivities. As a surprise, Moha arranged the highly skilled henna artist to henna Heidi’s hands. They were absolutely stunning. What a magical evening!My wife would like me to add some notes about our itinerary for those that are interested. If we were to plan the trip again we would fly into Casablanca, where flights arrive most frequently, and have a guide, preferably Moha, pick us up and whisk us away to Marrakech. We would spend a couple days here with a guide to get the lay of the land and help us understand how to navigate this new culture. Marrakech is more westernized than other cities so it's a good starting point. We might also have a couple days on your own there. After that we would rejoin our guide for a drive to the coast to Essaouira and have freshly caught and grilled fish by the port. Spend a few nights here exploring the laid back seaside town on your own. It's such a nice way to relax and spread your wings. Afterwards drive down the coast and experience the landscape and seafood. There is a town that is known for its farming of French style oysters and other amazing towns along the way. Then head in the direction of Taroudannt. Along the way experience the goats in the argan trees and the amazing oil that the trees produce. (Argan cooking oil is delicious and healthy. Also the lotions and argan-derived products are incredible too. Moha would often buy a bunch of these things to send his sister.) Head toward the Todra Valley. The water systems and agriculture are brilliant and beautiful. Stop at the Rose City where roses are grown in order to distill their scent. Daily the locals fill burlap bags with the white and blush pedals of the rose, carry them to a still where the essence/oil of the pedals are extracted to form rose water, oil, and many other lovely things. Heidi especially loved how the rose water was so refreshing in the desert heat when splashed on. (We got a thrill out of how Moha doused himself all over with rose water at the factory. It was so amusing! But the man smelled fine.) Local girls string blush colored rose buds into small wreaths, hearts and necklaces and offering them for sale along the road. Moha bought one for Heidi. Heidi says that she thinks Moha could see she was excited about the rose petal crafts but hesitant to speak up. Throughout the trip Moha helped Heidi experience the generosity of gifting small gifts back and forth. We gifted back and forth rose water, dried dates, bananas of the region and imported chocolate. We three shared it all and Jeff and Heidi experienced their culture of generosity. Back to the itinerary notes, we would continue to Rissani and the desert. Here you can ride a camel across the magnificent dunes of the Sahara Desert and overnight in a traditional Amizer/Berber tent piled with carpets. Perhaps you are wondering if these camel rides and tents are a bit hokey or touristy? Well, if they are hokey, they are nevertheless an unforgettable experience. Numerous groups of Amazir live in this area and a guide like Moha, who is originally from Rissani, can help illuminate these varying cultures to the traveler. If we were doing it again we would spend more time in this area and we would have slowed down a bit more to have time to absorb the slow moving desert life. On the way to Midelt there is an interesting powerful water geyser that Moha could tell we would be interested in. It's not on the regular itinerary but he had a hunch we would enjoy it and he was right. It would be nice for us to have stayed overnight in Midelt so we could have shopped the numerous rock and mineral dealers of the area. We would recommend passing through Ifrane and Volubilis before ending your guided tour in Fez. Do Fez on our own for 4 nights and get lost in its medieval exotic mystery.We enthusiastically recommend Rove Morocco Travels as a knowledgeable, responsible, resourceful Tour Company in Morocco.
Written by Mr.Jeff Krueger